The Menzoul, (the Guest Area and Hearth) was in the Emir’s main tent where his 6 wives and 18 children were housed. After finishing the vaccinations, we sat around the fire and drank many small cups of bitter coffee.

The coffee beans included a special bitter bean from Yemen, which the Emir kept in his purse.  The beans were ground as we watched and boiled in elegant coffee pots that were settled down in the embers. The servants (or slaves) refilled the small communal cup whenever we handed it back.

We eventually learned that if you give the cup back with a twist of your hand, that is a sign you have had enough. Then they will leave you alone for a while.

Location: Syrian-Iraqi Desert.